Complex Cognac

It takes both confidence and pride to launch an hors d’age Cognac—especially one blended with eaux-de-vie ranging from 30 to 50 years—without any labels or other identifying markings on its crystal decanter. But that is exactly what Cyril Camus, fifth generation of the last family-owned Cognac house in France, has done with Camus Extra Elegance ($390). Only the understated Camus (pronounced kah-moo) “Extra Cognac” lettering embossed on the matte metallic silver neck band hints that this is something not just “extra,” but extraordinary.

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